The Pack o' Cards Inn Combe Martin (Monument)

One of The Most Unusual Hostelries in the World

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By Combe Martin History and Heritage Project 2023-2024 

Last modified on November 25, 2024

Abstract

This article delves into the Pack O' Cards Inn, a Grade 2 Star listed national monument located in Combe Martin, North Devon. Constructed in the 17th century by Combe Martin Squire George Ley (1648-1716), the Pack o' Cards Inn is renowned for its unique architectural design emulating a deck of cards.

Originally built as an extravagant private townhouse, the structure has since evolved into a significant local landmark and hostelry. We explore the historical context and architectural features of this listed monument, linking it to 17th century conspicuous consumption.

Formerly the King's Arms, today the inn's traditional Devonshire bar, dining facilities, and en-suite accommodations represent its historic contribution to local hospitality and culture.

The Pack o’ Cards was first listed by Historic England in 1953, designated for its special architectural or historic interest. It is a building of more than special interest, since only 5.8% of UK structures are listed at Grade Two Star (II*).

Introduction

Combe Martin's 17th century Pack o’ Cards Inn is a prominent historic local landmark on the High Street. It was originally an ostentatious standalone townhouse, erected by a squire.

The Pack o' Cards Inn is dated locally to about 1690. It was commissioned by George Ley Esq., a member of the landed gentry, schoolmaster in Combe Martin, magistrate and local benefactor.

A large, impressive monument to George Ley (1648-1716) is affixed in Combe Martin Parish Church, on the aisle wall above the liturgical north door.

The Pack o' Cards Inn reflects the artistic trends of the English Urban Renaissance after the Restoration of 1660; a period marked by significant cultural and architectural development (Borsay, 1989). More to the point, the Pack o' Cards was built as a public display of wealth and influence.

Built of stone, rubble, and cob, these materials were common in traditional Devonian architecture, reflecting local building practices of the time. Stone provided durability, while rubble and cob were more readily available and affordable.

Combe Martin’s Town Hall and courthouse stood in what is now the inn’s car park. On this site during the 19th century, the Combe Martin petty sessions panel tried and ruled on minor criminal matters or summary offences.

17th Century English Gentry and Conspicuous Consumption 

Klein (2002) argues that the late 17th century saw an "increased emphasis on conspicuous consumption among the gentry, with architecture serving as a prime medium for displaying wealth and taste" (p. 215).

The unique design of the Pack o' Cards Inn would have undoubtedly drawn attention and showcased Ley's financial resources. And it was inherited by George's Ley's eldest son, also named George Ley.

The Pack o' Cards is listed for its unique architectural features and historical significance (Historic England L.E.N. 1169072, 1953).

Architectural and Cultural Symbolism

Brewer (1997) notes, "The Stuart period [1603 to 1714] witnessed a growing cultural fascination with games of chance, particularly among the gentry and emerging middle classes" (p. 327).

McKellar (2013) argues that "For many 17th-century builders, architecture served as a form of intellectual play, allowing them to demonstrate their wit and creativity" (p. 278).

The incorporation of the card motif into the building’s design (with features like 52 stairs and 13 rooms per floor) reflects a playful approach to architectural creativity.

By designing his inn to resemble a pack of cards, George Ley may have been tapping into the cultural zeitgeist, creating a structure that was both novel and resonant with contemporary interests.

If there are similar buildings anywhere else, they are not well-documented or as well-known as the Pack o' Cards. 

Dive into our history of Combe Martin˃ | Local historic landmarks˃ 

Historical Context

Celebrating Squire Ley's big win at cards: this extraordinary edifice represents his high social status in the reign of King William III (of Orange, r. 1689-1702) and Queen Mary II (d. 1694). 

Visit Heritage: William and Mary | A new age of monarchy

In Ley's time, England was recovering from the English Civil Wars and in the throes of the Glorious Revolution. These were tumultuous times in British history, marked by a significant "cultural and economic malaise" (Borsay, 1972, Culture circa 1680-circa 1760, p. 581).

Thanks to the Act of Settlement in 1701, George I, George II, and George III from the German House of Hanover ascended to the English throne. This laid the groundwork for England’s transformation into an industrial urban society.

By the turn of the 18th century, there were improvements in public amenities, architecture, and urban planning, contributing to a more sophisticated urban life.

Borsay suggests that the late 17th and early 18th centuries marked a transformation which he describes as "an urban renaissance". Leisure and luxury played a significant role in shaping provincial urban culture (ibid). 

George Ley's Personal Memorial

According to local lore, Ley built the inn after a significant gambling win. Girouard (2009) observes, "Personal narratives often played a crucial role in the design of 17th-century buildings, with architecture serving as a form of autobiography" (p. 189).

If this legend has any basis in fact, the design could be seen as Ley's way of memorialising both his good fortune and himself.

The Reign of Queen Anne

The Pack o' Cards Inn spent its early years under the reign of Queen Anne (r. 1702-1714). Anne, the younger daughter of James II, is frequently overlooked by historians. 

The Act of Union 1707 stands out as one of her most significant accomplishments; a pivotal political and cultural milestone, the Act profoundly influenced the future of the British Isles.

These events had a lasting impact on Britain, marking the conclusion of the Stuart dynasty (1603 to 1714), and paving the way for the Georgian period (1714 to c. 1830–1837) which brought a degree of political stability.

The Georgian period provided a more secure environment for local governance and community development in places like Combe Martin. This was an era of great social, political and cultural changes, including the start of the Industrial Revolution (Langford, Harvie and Morgan,1992).

Also Known as The King's Arms

The townhouse remained in the Ley family for over a hundred years, with subsequent elements including a south-facing sundial mounted on the wall above the car park. The gnomon on this sundial (the part that casts a shadow) appears to be missing.

The squire's eldest son, also George, added to the building in 1752, with the inscription 'G1752L'. Until June 1933, The Pack o' Cards Inn was advertised as The King’s Arms Family and Commercial Hotel (colloquially the 'Pack of Cards').

The Pack o' Cards Corelli Room

Popular Victorian and Edwardian author Marie Corelli's novel The Mighty Atom (1896) is set in Combe Martin, and Marie lived for some time at 'Waverly' near Combe Martin Seaside. 

Corelli stayed at the landmark King's Arms ('Pack of Cards') whilst writing The Mighty Atom; the authority for this is Exmoor National Park (27 April 2015): "Marie Corelli". 

The inn's Corelli Room has or had a desk, at which Marie is said to have written her unusual story about the conflict between science and religion. 

Combe Martin's Ascentiontide Earl of Rone Festival

During Combe Martin's annual Earl of Rone festival every spring bank holiday:  the historic trad/folk street pageant has always made several halts on the way (supposed to be reminiscent of the Stations of the Cross in more pious ages).

The Pack o' Cards Inn continues to be one of those checkpoints, mainly for refreshments. At each stage the Earl is fired upon and falls wounded from his donkey. He is mourned by the fool, and heckled by the many spectators. 

Secrets of The Pack o' Cards Inn

Topographer Frederick J. Snell wrote that mining levels were driven under Combe Martin; "and beneath the King’s Arms (or Pack of Cards, as the old manor-house of the Leys is usually designated) runs a subterranean passage, constructed for drainage purposes [a Mine adit]" (The Blackmore Country ,1911).

The North Devon Mills Group (1994) states that "a recorded watermill once stood in the grounds of The Pack o' Cards Inn, High Street, Combe Martin.

The leat for the mill once ran where the Old Police House now stands next door. There remains no trace of either" (p.118).

Learn more about Combe Martin’s Mills and Milling ˃

19th Century Fruitsellers and Strawberries

Industrious old Combmartin was famous for growing and exporting hundreds of tons of fine strawberries, other fruits, and vegetables, from the late 19th century into the 20th century. And fruitsellers congregated on the High Street at the old King's Arms. 

Read how Combe Martin segued from silver mining to strawberries.

The Pack o' Cards in Antique Histories

In 1895, the antiquarian John Lloyd Warden-Page wrote in The Coasts of Devon and Lundy Island that "fruit sellers mostly congregated about the King's Arms, an inn situated near the centre of the village. The queerest looking  hostelry in the world, it is commonly known as the Pack of Cards."

"Each storey is smaller than the one below, and the house certainly does look very much like one of those unsubstantial structures which we all delighted in raising when we were children"(Ibid).

The house boasts multiple entrances, a quaint front courtyard, outbuildings, and spacious gardens. The four-storey building consists of thirteen rooms and fifty-two windows and stairs, representing the number of cards in a full deck.

The total number of panes in all the inn’s windows equalled the value of a pack of cards, until the window tax (introduced in 1696 by William III) was imposed.

A distinctive feature is the polygonal sundial on the central gable of the third storey. The property also includes outhouses and a walled garden. The north-west garden wall incorporates two tiers of six straight-headed bee-boles, ornamental niches for beekeeping.

Bee boles, rows of recesses in walls, were used in Britain to shelter straw skeps from the elements before the invention of bee-hives in the 19th century.  Positioned to face the south, they would receive morning sunlight, keeping the stones warm and protecting the skeps from adverse weather.

In 1822, the inn was managed by landlady Jane Huxtable. The building, listed on the National Heritage List for England, is a Grade 2 Star structure, a category reserved for buildings of more than special interest, with only 5.8% of buildings listed in this category by Historic England.

The structure boasts four levels (four suits), thirteen chambers (number of cards in a suit), and 52 windows (cards in the pack]. It was constructed on a fifty-two square foot plot.

The Squire’s Library window above the main entrance features thirteen glass panes. Another noteworthy window is located to the right of the ground floor entrance facing the street. Each pane’s central circle was formed by the glass blower’s iron (Historic England, 2024).

Glass was a costly commodity in 1690, and after the primary glass was used, the centre pieces were either discarded or used for less significant windows. This could be due to several reasons such as the quality of the glass, the shape or size of the remaining pieces, or the cost-efficiency of reusing them.

The British glass industry expanded rapidly during the seventeenth century, making use of coal as its major fuel source and setting the industry far in advance of its European counterparts. The replication of 17th-century fine glass techniques would be fairly costly today (British History Online, Industries: Glass).

The balustrade at the top of the house was made of wrought iron. There is oak panelling, and an arched door to the Oak Room, which is believed to be much older.

Despite having thirteen rooms each with a fireplace, the building only has eight chimneys. This was Ley’s strategy to evade some of the Hearth Tax, which was introduced in 1662 (Hughes, E., 1991).

To determine the tax due, tax assessors would tally the number of chimneys visible from a building’s exterior. However, in 1696 (William III), Ley encountered a new challenge when the Window Tax supplanted the Hearth Tax. Individuals had found ways to evade these taxes.

The base tax was set at two shillings, with an extra shilling charged for each window. After fitting his property with 52 windows, Squire Ley promptly had a large number of them blocked off. These sealed windows were later referred to as permanent ‘Pitt’s Pictures’.

“Pitt’s pictures” was a term for ‘blind windows’ which were intentionally blocked from the inside. This was a common practice to evade the highly unpopular window tax. The first permanent British income tax was introduced in 1842.

Window Tax ceased in 1851, after objections from doctors and campaigners arguing that poor light caused ill health. Under Victoria, the Window Tax was repealed and superseded by a House Duty (National Archives, Window Tax).

The Pack o' Cards was said to house a ‘press gang table’, a hiding spot for sailors evading the press gangs. There was a time when Combe Martin and the Pack o’ Cards Inn were a haven for sailors between ships.

#Marie Corelli | #Hunting The Earl of Rone Photos 2023 | #Combe Martin's Industrial History | #Earl of Rone Video 1998

Conclusion

The Pack o' Cards Inn in Combe Martin, built around 1690, is historically significant due to its design representing a deck of cards. It features 52 windows, 13 fireplaces per floor, and many other elements in a pack of playing cards.

The inn's construction was inspired by George Ley’s good fortune in card games popular in his lifetime. Originally a squire's townhouse, it reflects both Ley's personal wealth and the broader cultural context of the time.

Its unique architecture has made it a local landmark and listed monument, representing Combe Martin community's history and tradition.

© Author December 2023 - March 2024

Footnotes:

Combe Martin described in 1895 by John Lloyd Warden Page

All along the bottom [valley], watered by a brisk trout stream, are gardens galore, varied with orchards of apple, pear, plum, and cherry. In season, the wayfarer is beset by vendors of fruit, but let him not think that he will get it cheap, for nothing is cheap within six miles of Ilfracombe, the all-devouring.

Still, they do a good trade, especially with passengers by the coaches, for those who can afford to pay coach fares are not careful to resist the temptation of purchasing one or more of the dainty maunds [baskets in Old English] that are held up so enticingly. 

These fruit sellers mostly congregate about the King's Arms, an inn situated near the centre of the village, the queerest looking hostelry in the world. It is commonly known as the " Pack of Cards."

Each storey is smaller than the one below, and the house certainly does look very much like one of those unsubstantial structures which we all delighted in raising when we were children. Excerpt taken from Coasts of Devon and Lundy Island; their towns, villages, scenery, antiquities and legends, by John Lloyd Warden Page (1895). London. Horace Cox.

References accessed Dec. 2023 - Nov. 23, 2024:

Berrynarbor News (2008): Movers & Shakers - No. 17, GEORGE LEY.

Borsay, Peter (1972 [1977]). Culture c. 1680-c. 1760. The English Provincial Town in the Century or So Immediately Preceding the Industrial Revolution. Taylor & Francis, Ltd.

Borsay, Peter. The English Urban Renaissance: Culture and Society in the Provincial Town, 1660-1770. Published by Clarendon Press, 1989.

Brewer, J. (1997). The Pleasures of the Imagination: English Culture in the Eighteenth Century. Published March 12, 2013 by Routledge.

Church of England (2023): Stations of the Cross.

Combe Martin History and Heritage Project (2023-2024): Historic Mill and Water Power for Combe Martin.

Girouard, M. (2009). Elizabethan Architecture: Its Rise and Fall, 1540-1640. Yale University Press.

Historic England (2024): Industrial Heritage - The Glass Industry. Education, Teacher's Kit.

Historic Royal Palaces. (n.d.). Queen Anne. Kensington Palace. Retrieved from https://www.hrp.org.uk/kensington-palace/history-and-stories/queen-anne/.

Langford, Harvie and Morgan (1992).  The Oxford History of Britain: The Eighteenth Century and the Age of Industry v.4. Oxford Paperbacks.

Local Histories. (n.d.). Life in the 17th Century. Retrieved from https://localhistories.org/life-in-the-17th-century/. 

McKellar, E. (2013). Landscapes of London: The City, the Country and the Suburbs, 1660-1840. Yale University Press.

Pack o' Cards Inn website: https://www.packocards.co.uk/.  

Page, John L. W. (1895): Coasts of Devon and Lundy Island Their Towns, Villages, Scenery, Antiquities and Legends .Horace Cox; First Edition (1 Jan. 1895)

Historic England: THE PACK OF CARDS INCLUDING COURTYARD WALLS INCORPORATING BEE BOLES ON NORTH-WEST SIDE, Combe Martin - 1169072 | Historic England.

The National Archives, Kew (2024): "Window tax".

Visit Combe Martin: https://www.visitcombemartin.com/. 

Visit Exmoor: https://www.visit-exmoor.co.uk/our-towns/combe-martin.

Warden Page, John (1895): The coasts of Devon and Lundy Island; their towns, villages, scenery, antiquities and legends. London. Horace Cox.

Watermills in North Devon 1994 Group: Watermills in North Devon 1994. Kingsley Printing, Ilfracombe.